Day Twenty-Three Final Day in Churchill Manitoba

We can not say we were really looking forward to day 23 as it was to be our last day in Churchill Manitoba. Beyond the bitterly cold weather there was to be much to miss of this northern Canadian town. We knew we would miss the aura of the place, the friendly people and the thrill of knowing that around each corner could be lurking a polar bear.

We had booked an upgraded ‘semi-private’ pair of tickets for our return trip back to Thompson Manitoba on the VIA Rail train after not so much enjoying the trip to Churchill in economy class or as Tyler calls it – cattle-class. It was far too noisy for our liking so an upgraded arrangement we thought might make the long train trip back to Thompson more enjoyable.

With this to be our last day in Churchill and not having to leave until 19:30 hrs, we tried to pack in as much as we could. We wanted to spend some more time in the Eskimo Museum as it had so much to offer curious minds like our own. It was only about three blocks from the Lazy Bear Lodge in distance, but the minus 5 degree weather with the minus 5-7 degree windchill made the walk a cold one. The wind was blowing hard straight into our faces all the way there and we were both frozen rather well by the time we got there. We spent a couple more hours examining the museum before heading back towards the main street to find something to fill our bellies.

We had eaten earlier on our trip to Churchill at a local favourite – Gypsy’s Bakery and wanted to try it again. The food was great the first time around and the second time back didn’t disappoint. The staff of this family run restaurant epitomizes northern hospitality in Canada. The da Silva family makes your stay at their restaurant a warm and welcoming one. Both times we were greeted by the eldest son Fredric who readily spoke French with Catherine and made us feel like we were eating in their home. They offer everything from classic Canadian dishes to Italian and of course a wide selection of bakery items you won’t find elsewhere in Churchill. If you travel to Churchill be sure to drop in on the Gypsy Bakery & Restaurant and tell them that Tyler and Catherine sent you. You won’t be disappointed.

After eating we still had some time to kill before heading to the train station. We visited the community centre and were surprised to find that the views of Hudson Bay were better than we thought – it was also warmer than braving the views from outside! We also we surprised to find local history within the centre in the form of portrait photos of important figures in Churchill’s history. The faces on display oozed character and you could sense looking at them that Churchill can be a hard place to live in being so remote. You will find these portraits on the second floor near the ice rink and Hudson Bay viewing windows.

We wanted to get some more photos of the wild churning waters of Hudson Bay so we bundled ourselves back up and headed back into the elements. The wind and snow was blowing hard and the cold air quickly found any gaps in our clothing which quickly chilled us to the bone. Remember – dress warmly at this time of year! Catherine could barely feel her fingers and toes after just a few minutes outside near the water.

Sadly the time came where we had to head back to the Lazy Bear Lodge to gather our belongs for the trip back to Thompson. We knew we would miss Churchill and made a pact to come back some time in the future.

With our upgraded tickets in hand we headed towards our assigned ‘semi-private’ area. We quickly found it to be anything but private, nor quiet. We had to spend considerable time on the phone with customer service agents to have our tickets changed and were assured our seats would offer greater comfort and a better opportunity to rest and sleep. What a let down it was when we were placed beside a family of five with all three children under four years of age including a newborn. We have nothing against children but being that we had a 1100 kilometer leg of our journey to undertake once back in Thompson we wanted nothing to do with our new seating arrangement. The newborn was crying fiercely before we had even placed our bags on the floor of our adjacent area and the two other children were yelling loudly as well. We wasted no time grabbing a VIA Rail agent to request an immediate move of location. They said none was available. That was hard to believe being that the train was nearly empty. After a bit of prodding another agent said for $17 dollars we could have a single private room complete with bed, toilet, sink and door we could shut for complete privacy and noise reduction. We jumped on that and found it to be well worth the money. So if you find yourself in the same situation ask for the single private room – it was a tad small for two, but it sure beat the alternative we would have faced for 18 hours.

Our only worry from that point on was the question of our car being there at the station when we arrived…

Tyler says of day 23 – I didn’t really want to go but we had to keep moving on. I will definitely be back in Churchill at some time, but probably when it is a tad warmer. The tours were fun and the town while small was very welcoming and easy to navigate. Churchill is not a place to go if you are looking for five-star accommodations, but it is a place to visit if being in a truly remote northern town is on your to-visit list. I won’t take the train to Churchill again after our VIA experience both there and back.

Catherine says of day 23 – I really enjoyed this friendly northern town. Churchill has much to offer including the beautiful views along Hudson Bay. The Eskimo Museum was especially interesting and taught me much about the local culture and history. If taking the train to Churchill be sure to book a private room – the extra cost is worth the money.

Tags: Canada, canadian, catherine, churchill, eskimo museum, gypsy bakery, hudson bay, lazy bear lodge, manitoba, polar bear, thompson, tour, train, tyler, via rail